Bolla e’ Rinato

May 1, 2013 at 11:16 am

While “reborn” is an accurate translation for rinato, using it to describe the current wines of Italian producer Bolla might be a slight embellishment. This is not your mother & fathers Bolla, but closer to your grandmother & grandfathers, with some modern help.

Bolla is an entrepreneurial success story by any standard. In 1883 Abele Bolla, a Veneto innkeeper made his own Soave, a local wine, to give to his guests. Word got out about this Soave & eventually he labeled & sold it, becoming so popular it became known as “Soave Bolla”, one of the few Italian wines people knew by name. Bolla went on to become a major producer of other signature wines of the Veneto region, such as Valpolicella & Amarone.

Fast forward to present day & Christian Scrinzi, winemaker extraordinaire, & the force behind a re-dedication to making the wines of Bolla the best they can be. Starting in 2001 all aspects of winegrowing & winemaking were reviewed & changes were made to utilize the advantages of modern technology while keeping & nurturing the unique Terroir of the northeastern area that is the Veneto.

Christian wanted to get back to Bolla’s “roots” & he literally did that by first, focusing on the roots of the vines, then the way they were pruned and trellised. A good wine starts in the vineyard & with the help of new cutting edge equipment & artistic winemaking, great wine is the ultimate result.

A private event was held at the Four Season Hotel in Philadelphia for the restaurant trade, attending were sommeliers & wine directors of Philly’s finest restaurants, sponsored by Bolla, partner Banfi Vintners & distributor Capital Wine & Spirits. Flying in from Italy was winemaker Christian Scrinzi, who along with Director of Communications, Lars Leicht, described the changes at Bolla & walked us thru a tutored tasting of seven of his wines.

Following the tasting, we adjourned upstairs to a suite with a panoramic view of Logan’s Square on the Benjamin Franklin Parkway. we were treated to a wine and food pairings prepared by Head Chef Rafael Gonzalez, which included Quail wrapped in prosciutto with Beluga lentils, Trofie pasta with garlic herbs & ricotta salad & a wonderful antipasti/cheese table, which included Fiore Sardo, a raw, whole sheep’s milk Pecorino from the island of Sardinia.

The Wines of Bolla:
Prosecco DOC NV $12 A brand new wine for Bolla & this was its debut. Beautiful effervescence, a youthful tornado of bubbles from the center of the flute. Creamy nose of lemon & peach, with more creaminess on the palate & a touch of sweetness. Ready for a glass alfresco.
Soave Classico 883 DOC 2012 $12 100% Garganega, a selection up from the regular bottling, nice & bright citrus, lemon, slightly fruity, soft on mid-palate but the acidity comes on in the end.

Tufaie Soave Classico Superiore DOCG 2010 $13 A reserve Soave if you will, 90% Garganega, 10% Trebbiano, much darker in color, a beautiful caramel yellow, aged on its lees , some skin contact, partial barrel aging & Malolactic fermentation. Aromatic, floral, defintely some viscosity in the mouth, a nice lingering finish just adds to a unique take on the traditional wines of Soave. Worth seeking out.

Le Poiane Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore DOC 2010 $16 70% Corvina 30% Rondinella, the higher end to the regular Ripasso, the Le Poiane has an initial 15 day fermentation & this “Valpolicella” then goes thru a second fermentation, this time with the grape must from their Amarone, then aged for 24 months in barrel. Big candy cherry nose, nice chewy tannins, easy to drink, great finish, a good introduction to the red wines of the Veneto.
Amarone Classico DOC 2008 $40 70% Corvina/Corvione, 30% Rondinella, licorice, tar, thick, with licorice, stewed cherry flavors, a seam of toasty vanilla runs thru to surprising supple tannins and a long finish. A classis Classico.
Creso Verona IGT 2010 $26 The Veneto’s version of a baby super Tuscan, single vineyard Corvina 65%, 35% partially dried Cabernet Sauvignon, what an awesome wine, different in such a good way, while the fruit from the Corvina is present on the nose the pencil shavings make you well aware of the Cabernet. Nicely integrated tannins allow for immediate pleasure but I would lay this puppy down to reveal the wines full potential. Grab this and the Tufaie for a nice red & white venetian combo!

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