
The subject today is new government rules that were put in place this year as a result of an agreement with the EU. These rules involve new label approvals for any US made wine that preclude the use of the following words in the name of the wine:
Burgundy, Chablis, Champagne, Chianti, Claret, Haut Sauterne, Hock, Madeira, Malaga, Marsala, Moselle, Port, Retsina, Rhine, Tokay, Sherry.
Use of these words on existing labels is grandfathered in, until those labels need re-approval and then the new rules will apply. So Korbel Champagne, Gallo Hearty Burgundy, etc. are not immediately affected - this is why you will continue to see American ports and champagnes on the shelves for a while (even though the label designs may become anachronistic.)
These rules have actually been effectively in place since March, in a “we strongly urge you” way - I blogged about our experience with these rules on our winery blog. And now Congress has acted to put those rules firmly in place - yesterday Tom Wark blogged about this news.
What these rules mean for a winery is that now we must come up with ways to describe our product on the front label, without using the Forbidden Words. As Tom pointed out, “Fortified Zinfandel Wine” is a lot less descriptive than “Zinfandel Port” - and to me it sounds like I will be getting 8 essential vitamins and minerals with every glass…
For the consumer, you get the fun of decoding our new clever fanciful names on our labels to figure out what you are really getting. Some will be easier than others; for example, Quady has had a “Starboard” for many years, and this year we introduced our first “Pour’t”. I expect we’ll see other variations: P*rt, Po Ert, etc. For sparkling wines, “Sham Pain” would be obvious and would also describe the whole situation…
So what are your ideas for new names? To what name, for example, should Gallo change “Hearty Burgundy”? Tell us!
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2 Responses to “Any P*rt in a Storm…”
I’m mixed on my feeling for this new regulation/enforcement. On one hand, I am VERY sick of people telling me asinine things like “Oh, Burgundy’s only from the Burgundy region in France.” or “You know that’s not really champagne, right?” Ok people… I already knew that.
My feelings are that these regions/names/appelations/whatevers have come to signify, in some cases, a method of wine creation. So, for that reason, I feel that it should be OK to use their names where the method to create the wine has held true.
Alternatively, America should see this as an opportunity to create their own nomenclature for certain ’styles’ of wine and no longer be simply attempting to recreate the styles of the French, Spanish, or Portuguese.
I’m very interested to see how the wineries go about re-naming their products.
As a consumer and wine educator, I try to encourage people to use the proper nomenclature (Champagne comes only from the Champagne region of France, etc.). But it seems to me that labeling laws could allow the use of some terms that are already used by a lot of wine folks.
Terms like “Bordeaux style” tell us about the wine yet indicate that the wine doesn’t come from Bordeaux. “Meritage” hasn’t really caught on with Americans so far as I can tell, but maybe it’s time that it does.
As for El Jefe’s request for ideas, some terms are probably easier than others. “Port-style” might describe the Zin port he’s making.
I don’t know what the folks at Gallo will do. I don’t drink their “Hearty Burgundy,” so I don’t even know what’s in it. They could always call it “Hearty Pinot Noir,” I suppose.
But I think Kim is right–this is an opportunity as much as it is a headache. Carpe vinum and take advantage of it, I say.